In Pokhara

6 hour bus ride from KTM to Pokhara—cramped and hot, but uneventful. A horrible chorus of touts at the end of it, screaming at us to choose their taxi. When I checked into the hotel, I was so sick of the heat and smells and noise that I decided—I'm not going out—I'm just going to buy my plane ticket and crawl into bed.

After hot shower in private bathroom felt much better. The hotel telephoned someone who came over with a plane ticket for me, and a young man walked me to the internet café, holding an umbrella over my head.

Pokhara is essentially a lakeside resort. If I were visiting Nepal purely for pleasure, I think I'd skip KTM altogether and come straight here. It’s far more chilled out, with all the same conveniences. Even the cows are cuter than in the capital.

No end of dining choices here. Café Concerto is right on the imaginary line between North and South Lakeside. Patio and rooftop bar. Pale orange walls, dimly lit, light music and candlelight.

A hundred people walking by with candles. A banner: “Grand Success of the Summit Peace Talk, Compulsion for the Nation.” Everyone very calm. Most in Western dress. Cars weave their way through the crowd without honking.

A server with a lovely crooked smile tells me it’s a peace rally. “They, candlelight. Silent, because peace rally. So peace.”

(Later)

Cutting one’s hair with nail clippers only seems like one of those ideas that won't work.