Notes from Nepal

A record of my experience living with a group of Tibetan nuns in Nepal.

Monday, October 23, 2006

The King of Mustang

Got up around 7:30—so quiet I thought the ani-haru were sleeping in for once. Hira washing her hands and face in the liquid ice of the stream. “Anto-nia…washing?” I'm no longer trying to hide my “special needs”—when I got back from the toilet she had warm water ready for me.

I gather from Hira that all the other ani-haru have gone to Jhargot today. They must have left really early, and quietly too. Listening to radio—announcer keeps saying puja—Hira tried to explain what he’s saying—“3 days cow puja, 2 days bulbul puja”—and he says Laksmi over and over again—she says that’s the puja which ended yesterday—something about brothers and sisters—and it’s somehow connected with the p.o.s being here and dancing—she says they also gave money. I thought it was just a party—was it part of the puja?

The Eghara plunge shivering into the kitchen with toothbrushes in hand and their round baby heads in towels. The smaller one puts her hands nearly inside the fire.

The ani-haru have some errands to do. DK says to me: “We go, you stay. You see gompa. People come, you: shoes off, no photo. It’s ok?” I feel useful.

Lots of German tourists—some Americans—I cause a little confusion among the Nepalis: “where ani?” One cross German man: “Why no photos? I took photo in other temple and nobody said anything.”

One Nepali young man asks, “Where is photo of King of Mustang?” I say I don’t know, not familiar with that title. He turns and sees photo of Wengyal Lama.: “Ah! King of Mustang!” I had no idea there even was such a title.

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